GREENHOUSE SITE PREP
1. Remove the existing sod and
level the ground.
2. If you have more than a few
inches of fill, tamp down with a tamping device or a heavy lawn
roller and wait a bit for the ground to settle.
3. Spread the entire base area with
3-4 inches of 5/8 inch crushed clean gravel. Tamp this down to permit a firm
well-drained surface for the greenhouse base and to help deter
weeds or erosion inside the greenhouse.
Optional: to
prevent weeds entirely, before graveling, lay landscaping/weed
cloth which has pre-drained holes in it, allowing water to drain
through.
4. Allow a small “tunnel” for electrical and/or
plumbing lines, to be bronght in under the frame. You can use a 2” or 3” piece of plastic pipe (one
under each side, or one front, and one back).
5. Position
the greenhouse perimeter base, anchoring it with ground
anchors or other appropriate means.
6. After the greenhouse walls and
roof are on the perimetr base, install the interior
flooring materials.
See helpful hints below.
Helpful
hints:
Pea gravel is not advisable under the wood (or other)
bases, since it will never really pack down like crushed gravel
will. It is only
recommended for the interior floor if
desired.
Brick flooring is a natural thermal mass, and is great
for the heat collection on a winter day. After the daylight is gone
the heat collected by the brick is released inside the greenhouse,
slowing the cooling off process.
Weed cloth is great under the base gravel. It will allow water to
drain through. Don’t
use plastic that has no perforations. When you clean with a hose, or
water a lot at one time, your excess water will have no place to
go. You may create a
too humid situation or be walking around in water that cannot
readily drain away.
A concrete slab is not our favorite flooring. If you do use a slab, you will
need to put in a sloped drain area. The perimeter, however, must be level.
Without a drain in, you'll have a puddle to stand in when you hose
the inside.
Existing Concrete slab: If you are placing the
greenhouse on an existing slab, it is probably
slopped for natural drainage. If so you would then need to shim
the greenhouse base, level it up, and then install drainage holes
around the base so water can run out when you clean. If you install a drain, make it large enough, and
put a screen over the opening to keep bark, small rocks, and dead leaves from
clogging the drain.
On your deck. Decks often have spaces in
between the boards. If
so it is a good idea to install the greenhouse base, and bolt it
down to the deck. An
“L” bracket screwed to the deck and to the base is fine in 4 places
around the base. Then get some 1 inch foam insulation pieces (used for insulation on
roofs) and cover that
with a marine plywood layer about 1/2 inch thick.
In this
circumstance you will want to be cautious when mega watering, since
a draining situation is more difficult to create. The insulation and plywood
flooring helps to keep the greenhouse warmer in winter when cold
winds blow up from underneath the deck.
These are
our recommendations based on our own experiences of installing
and using greenhouses.